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South Dakota - Sioux ankleboot with
quill and beadwork upper
Since soft sole moccasins wear out quickly in the harsh Plains
environment, another style came progressively into use around
the middle of the nineteenth century. This was the two-piece "moccasin"
which had a flat soft or hard rawhide sole with a soft buckskin
upper. It therefore was no longer a moccasin but a shoe. The upper
is of one piece with a vertical backseam and is always shaped
for right and left. The construction is usually "turnshoe',
but "stitschdown" occurs in some cases. The boot above
has an additional fringed piece sewn to the instep, while the
tongue is cut in one piece with the upper. The flattened quills
of the porcupine, dyed with colours extracted from roots, berries
and mosses, together with Venetian glass beads are secured to
the hide with sinew thread. Red-dyed horsehair tassels fixed in
tin cones were added to the tongue.
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